Dragon's Teeth

You've been asking if I'd posted all the Maui pics...so I'll take the hint. There are tons more...plus all the Italy pictures. I'll try to get them all up eventually.

On our second day on Maui, Nana and I started exploring with our trusty guide book. One early destination were the "Dragon's Teeth."
It was harder to find than we thought. Over in Kapalua with a path along the Ritz golf course. You'd think that would be easy to find.
So we braved being beaned by errant golf balls on a beautiful but windy day.
This was early in our adventures, so Nana was a little nervous, thinking she wouldn't be able to get down to the teeth. I assured her that I could carry her down and carry her back. She seemed unconvinced, but walked all the way down with me - and back!
These pictures are off the end of the little peninsula. Gorgeous caves, big waves, and breathtaking views. Still very windy, but worth the scrabbling over volcanic rock.




Here are some of the Dragon's Teeth themselves.
I was so proud of Nana and impressed by her trust (mind you...this was BEFORE the injury). Here is how the formation of the Dragon's Teeth is explained on one tourism site:

Dragon’s Teeth is a good example of what can happen when forces of nature collide. As the lava from the West Mau‘i Volcano poured into the ocean, fierce wind and waves forced it back and it cooled into a formation that resembles great black teeth. Makalua-puna Point was created from one of the last lava flows on Maui. However, the lava is a little different from the rest of the lava on Maui - it is much lighter, denser, and fine-grained. The wind sweeping over the point caused the lava to harden in an upward fashion.

Another site has more pictures.

Nana Visits Honolua Bay

On our first day exploring the island, we headed north to see the sites. We followed the guidebook so closely that we were using the Tripometer to make sure that we didn't miss things like "the small dirt trail to the left, .3 miles past the Bell Rock."

The first stop was this overlook near Honolua Bay. Though I'd worn my bathing suit, convinced I'd be jumping in somewhere, we'd already decided we wouldn't be hiking down to any beaches. It was enough to pull over, see them, and move on to view the next breathtaking vista.
I'd be lying if I didn't say I was experiencing serious kayak and rafting envy as we observed folks down on the bay. It was still quite early, maybe not even 9 am, but there were cars parked along the road next to paths that beach hunters have forged over the years.
There was hooting and hollering in sections - and then you'd look elsewhere and there would be singles and couples just floating quietly. Serenity!
As we stood overlooking the bay and appreciating the view to the open ocean on the other side, group after group pulled into the little jug handle, climbed out, did the same thing, and went on their way. It was clear that this photo op wasn't really a "secret" after all.

We Met the Nicest People

This kind family from New York insisted that we turn that convertible around and visit the Garden of Eden; we had passed it on the Road to Hana thinking it wasn't worth the admission price. It actually was gorgeous and we were grateful to have run into them, even if they were Yankees fans.
Could that dress be any shorter? I had no idea and, since you know me, I am pretty sure I didn't handle myself in the most ladylike of manners all night. Which means there was probably a ton of accidental underwear flashing. No wonder these guys are smiling and encouraging me to show off my shaka. These gentlemen were playing music throughout our opening reception and were absolutely darling and fun. I wanted a picture with them -and the bassist in particular - for Keane.

Needless to say, Keane's not impressed.
In Paia at the Fish Market, we ran into this adorable couple on their honeymoon from Germany. They'd actually gotten married in Hawaii, which I still don't quite understand. (Of course, you know that marriage isn't my specialty.) Claus and Nadia live about 30 minutes from Munich. We'll probably hook up with them when I take Keane to Europe next summer. Nadia is Swiss.

The Paia Fish Market was the first place I drove more than an hour to just for fish tacos with a good reputation. I had them as often as I could while in Maui. Most were mahi fish tacos, and most were grilled. They weren't San Diego/Baja style, but were still awesome.

I have actually had two (!!) dreams about them since I got home. Dreaming about food is just one of the many reasons I'm not a size 4.

This is Dave. He is the friend I will visit in Melbourne, soon enough. He's in hospitality, liquor, restaurants, and bars. Food and booze...no wonder I got along so well with him! I honestly could have hung out and talked with he and his wife all afternoon - except that we both were on a mission to get some banana bread down the road.

We met them at the shave ice place. This is the shave ice ladies back yard. Dave owes me my picture, but hasn't e-mailed it to me yet. Later, I will add it. (I'm counting on you, Dave.)

We ran into Dave and his family again back in Ka'anapali, which was cool, but I was running to catch the boat for parasailing and by the time we got back they were done with their Hula Grill meal. We were bummed! You know how I love a fun (foodie and boozy) Australian family.
I feel awful because I have forgotten this young lady's name. She sold me an adorable dress - not the too-short black one; I clearly purchased that one without any professional assistance. Thanks a lot, Nana!

She was working at this boutique for the summer, but goes to school in Washington. She hopes to get a job at a tasting room when she returns to school in the fall! Loves wine. Eliminates any need for me to shop for myself. We need her on the team!
Possibly my favorite picture from the whole trip. We didn't encounter a single staff member at the Sheraton who wasn't cheerful, friendly, funny, and kind. We bonded especially with the maids in our section. We would see them piling onto the elevator each morning...and one day we hopped on with them. It was that morning that we snapped this picture.

Pay Phones

All over the island. So cute with tropical flowers. When was the last time you saw a working pay phone at home?
I have a crush on adorable Hawaiian Telcom. Honestly...I just kept taking pictures of them. The top on was in Napili, the one just above and below here is near the Starbucks in Kahului (in the same shopping center as the Borders and the liquor "super mart"!
This one was....oh, I don't remember. Probably Lahaina.
And, this last one, I saw in Paia. Later I'll write about the excellent fish tacos at Paia Fish Market, show you the place Nana selected for her tattoo, and blog about the darling future wine consultant I met when I bought my white eyelet dress. All in gorgeous Paia!

We Love Simon

It's actually spelled saiman and Nana and I are officially hooked. My brothers would recognize it as a soup similar to Dad Ramen, except in place of strips of Buddig beef there are pieces of Spam, scrambled egg, and fish cake that looks a lot like radishes. It is dee-lish!

It's a fish broth, so it's a lot like shrimp-flavor Top Ramen, except it's not artificially seafood flavored like the ramen is. Plus, it's traditionally a breakfast food.

Nana and I would drive up to Kapalua to the Honolua store near the Ritz-Carlton to have it. They also made great ham and cheese omelets and had good coffee. Mmmmm....coffee.....It's the cutest little place - a weird cross between a New England/Cape building and an Adirondack lodge. Just cool.

We would sit on the porch to eat and just relax in the shade.

On our first visit, we met a terrific transplant from the mainland, Athena, on her way to work. We were in line for coffee and we noticed a $5 bill drifting down near her feet. All three of us thought it belonged to the lady ahead of us. We called her back over, gave her the money and within seconds realized that it was mine. Duh.

Athena then secretly paid for our coffee! We wanted to meet up with her later - maybe at one of the wine tastings - but it wasn't to be. Instead, we left her some wine (Somersville Chardonnay, which Brigette will tell you is like liquid, fat-free butter in a glass) when we left. I'll look her up when I'm back on the Big Island next fall.

Meeting Athena and chatting with her - and her sweet gesture to a couple of Maui visitors - made us love Honolua Store even more. (That and the limes we were able to pick up for the g&ts, natch.)

I Love Fresh Air

I have a rather annoying (to some) habit. It's a preference of mine and it's kind of a litmus test for my travel companions.

I am a window opener. It's the first thing I do when I arrive someplace on vacation. Whether it's Lake Las Vegas, Mexico, the Bahamas, or Key West, I'm on the terrace, enjoying the outdoors. I don't like to be cooped up and the trip over on the plane is almost more than I can bear.

I almost loathe A/C. In fact, I drive a convertible because I like outside air. I don't actually enjoy being tan all the time. I just can't help it. Got a lot of melanin.

So...as one would expect, upon arrival I threw open the sliding glass door. We started talking about sleeping with the door open all night, enjoying the island breezes, and listening to the ocean right outside. I was thrilled! Rapture, really.

As we prepared to leave for dinner, I decided to lock up because it would be so easy to climb over the wall to our patio and stroll into our room and steal our welcome chocolates - or our gin.
So, I was closing the door and some weird leaf fell down and hit me in the face and landed in between my tank top and my lei. I stopped and looked down to remove it and the leaf jumped up off my chest and hit me in the eye. I screamed so loud (like a girl, even!) that Nana came running out of the bathroom to see what seaweed monster was dragging me off.

By that time, I had grabbed the gecko off my chest and tried to fling it out into the grass. It had other ideas and had run up my arm and jumped back into the drapes.

You might think it was a gecko like this (because there are tons of them around the property):

But it was a gecko more like THIS!

I have to assume that it ran outside...startled by my high-pitched shriek and frenzied, mindless efforts to kill it. (I wouldn't normally do that, but fight or flight was kicking in.)

We ended up keeping the door closed while we were sleeping, much to my disappointment. I just couldn't in good conscience leave it open and risk Nana being carted away by giant, muscle-bound, ill-tempered, mutant geckos.

Each morning, we greeted the day by opening the room up and each evening, before bed, we solemnly closed - and locked (did I mention the opposable thumbs on that green monster?) - the door.

Later we ran across this sign.

Now they tell us.

What I'm Drinking

I've settled in for a nice evening with a little of the Pied Violet 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, a really garlicky salad with grilled chicken, and some 24 and hottie Jack Bauer. They're all surprisingly good together.

So, I'm bragging to my friend on the phone that I'm drinking the sold out Cab tonight, starting Season 4, and how delicious it all is and I look down and realize that I'd accidentally grabbed the Merlot from the wine basement.

Turns out the Merlot is even better with the salad - and the watermelon - and I'm actually quite grateful to learn this, because it's still available and I can continue to be uncharacteristically stingy with my last six bottles of the Cab.

The first night the whole gang met up in Maui - and at convention - I'd been a little cranky because I saw the beautiful Purple Foot label and each time I'd bellied up to the bar, visibly excited about having some of the Cabernet--and was met with the Merlot. In Maui (see above and below) I was mocked for my diva behavior. How dare they make fun of me for being so ridiculously opinionated and enthusiastic!
I didn't exactly drink the Merlot grudgingly... but I am still convinced that the Cab would have been better with the pate on pita, the fantastic goat cheese and grape tomato skewers, as well as with the delicious petite filets and the chocolate mousse.

When they said "sold out" they must have meant it.

Some Rooms with a View

Look at our room! We couldn't believe it. In hindsight, I don't know what we expected, but it wasn't this. When we checked in and she told us we'd be on the first floor with an ocean view, I even asked "Will we be able to see the ocean from the first floor?"

I hope I don't run into her again. I'm embarassed by my cape-flipping response. I wasn't yet in Maui mode and didn't realize how fantastic the staff would be or how many great friends we would make. Honestly, when I return to Maui, I'll probably stay at the Sheraton Maui again.

I mean, with views like this from the suite...
this during Sunset....

and like this at the Lagoon bar...



Come on! It's paradise, people.

A Gorgeous Resort

My first time in Maui and Nana's first to Hawai'i at all and we didn't know what to expect. It's embarrassing, but I'll admit it because if you know me well, you've probably heard me say it before.

In fact, less than a month ago, I was saying it at a gorgeous Tuscan-style resort in Nevada.

A couple of summers ago I was overheard observing the same thing in the Bahamas.

The first time we went to New Orleans, I said it.

And, I'll bet if I ever go on safari in Kenya or stay at an African lodge, I'll say it.

(Warning: I expect I'll definitely utter the phrase in Italy next month.)
It reminds me of Disney World.

There. I wrote it.

And I realize that it's very sad. I've seen the fake version of "the world" so many times - and Disney is so good at replicating it, albeit in a sanitized version - that when I go places that are distinctive, I'm reminded of the lands the Mouse built.
The bars and the drink huts remind me of the Tiki Room at the Magic Kingdom. (YOU know the place, where the birds all sing and the flowers bloom? Yeah that one, the tiki, tiki, tiki, tiki, tiki room.)
The resort itself reminds me so much of the Polynesian Resort at Disney World, with a little bit of the Royal Pacific Resort from Universal Orlando thrown in.

I know that this is the real thing - and it certainly is better - but it's amazing to me what a great job they do copying it in Orlando. As I type this, I hear a Hawai'ian crooner performing out by the pool, and it sounds just like it does when Keane and I are waiting for our table at O'Hana.
I suppose that it was unavoidable, with the many times we've gone to Disney in our lifetimes and the great number of Epcot International Food and Wine Festivals Keane and I have jetted down to attend.

I only admit it here, because you are my friend and you won't judge me for being a product of my environment.

I love to travel. I'll risk sounding smug and arrogant and call myself intellectually curious, even if you won't.

And, still, my touchstone, my impressions and perspective are all indelibly colored by my domestic experiences.

At theme parks.

Glorious, incredible theme parks - the best in the WORLD - but theme parks nonetheless.

Somehow that's depressing to me. Almost 40 and I compare all fabulous locales to the Disney version.

Nana and I are going to have to get out and really experience Maui so we can come home with tales that aren't just about what the most popular cocktail at the Lagoon Bar is or what our favorite appetizer is at Black Rock restaurant.

Stay tuned. There will be pictures.

The Road to Ka'anapali

We landed at Kahului airport and had to drive down to Ma'alaea Bay and then around along the shore through Lahaina to get to Ka'anapali, where we're staying.

It took about 45 minutes and by the second half the Maui rush hour had begun and I had to keep both hands on the wheel, but much of that portion of the trip the ocean was so close that if there'd been a rogue wave it would have soaked the pavement ahead of us.

We'd been mesmerized by the clouds earlier and how they alternated between looking vaguely threatening, as if a storm would gather any minute, and looking absolutely heavenly, with amazing shafts of sunlight streaming through. In many areas, the clouds shrouded mountains, leaving the summits obscured. So gorgeous - all of it.





And then we were there.