Pay Phones

All over the island. So cute with tropical flowers. When was the last time you saw a working pay phone at home?
I have a crush on adorable Hawaiian Telcom. Honestly...I just kept taking pictures of them. The top on was in Napili, the one just above and below here is near the Starbucks in Kahului (in the same shopping center as the Borders and the liquor "super mart"!
This one was....oh, I don't remember. Probably Lahaina.
And, this last one, I saw in Paia. Later I'll write about the excellent fish tacos at Paia Fish Market, show you the place Nana selected for her tattoo, and blog about the darling future wine consultant I met when I bought my white eyelet dress. All in gorgeous Paia!

What I'm Drinking: Sunfish! Sunfish! Sunfish Syrah!

Mmm...it's good! I finally picked up my wine club and I really wanted to try the Sunfish 2006 Syrah. There are a few reasons, not the least of which is that my awesome cousin called today and ordered some when neither of us had even tasted it yet!

I'm a four-bottle wine club member, because I like to try all four new wines each month. The Sunfish was the only one I hadn't ever tasted before, so the decision had been made. TWO reasons to drink it.

Third reason? (Ryan P. can vouch for this.) Fishing for fresh water sunnies - off a dock or standing in the water - is one of my favorite catch-and-release activities. I'm pretty good at it, if I do say so myself. It's the hunter in me, I think.

So, as you know, each of the wines come with a cool card with pairing suggestions, winemakers notes, and a recipe, often specially created for pairing with that particular wine. The Sunfish was no exception and the recommendations included turkey dishes, smoked cheeses, or vegetables prepared in sesame oil. The recipe was for a delectable looking Grilled Turkey Sandwich with Smoked Gouda. YUM!

Without going to Giant, the only things I had handy were the avocados, tomato, garlic, mayo and romaine lettuce. Not even close to being able to make the sandwich, which is embarrassing. It's a "work" night, so I couldn't spare the hour to run out for groceries.

But, I did have grilled chicken in the fridge and some zucchini and summer squash, so I tossed the veggies with some sesame oil, cut up the chicken, tossed the whole thing together and opened the bottle.

The agonizing over the food was unnecessary. This wine is FANTASTIC on its own. It's what I would call a "T.V. wine." You can enjoy it on its own, watching T.V. No need to pair it, it's still good.

Of course, it was still great with the veggies and chicken, but I'm so excited to find another yummy, easy wine I can stock up on and open up at any time.

This is one that the Fog Zinfandel lovers (sold out, folks) and the Broadmoore Merlot fans will really enjoy. If you liked the Villa Encantado Malbec, you'd appreciate this one, too.

Can't Pass This One Along to Nana

Just as I suspected when I bought it in Kahului, this book is absolutely filthy. No joke.

In addition to the "romance" I had anticipated a bunch of anti-haole rhetoric and "evil-colonizers" perspective. Check!

What I didn't expect was the gore. Lots of accidental amputations, missing eyeballs, lepers, babies thrown off cliffs, laundry workers blinded by starch, etc.

Gotta hand it to the author, though: She doesn't let all the blood-and-guts, poverty, oppression, and disease get in the way of the smut.

We Love Simon

It's actually spelled saiman and Nana and I are officially hooked. My brothers would recognize it as a soup similar to Dad Ramen, except in place of strips of Buddig beef there are pieces of Spam, scrambled egg, and fish cake that looks a lot like radishes. It is dee-lish!

It's a fish broth, so it's a lot like shrimp-flavor Top Ramen, except it's not artificially seafood flavored like the ramen is. Plus, it's traditionally a breakfast food.

Nana and I would drive up to Kapalua to the Honolua store near the Ritz-Carlton to have it. They also made great ham and cheese omelets and had good coffee. Mmmmm....coffee.....It's the cutest little place - a weird cross between a New England/Cape building and an Adirondack lodge. Just cool.

We would sit on the porch to eat and just relax in the shade.

On our first visit, we met a terrific transplant from the mainland, Athena, on her way to work. We were in line for coffee and we noticed a $5 bill drifting down near her feet. All three of us thought it belonged to the lady ahead of us. We called her back over, gave her the money and within seconds realized that it was mine. Duh.

Athena then secretly paid for our coffee! We wanted to meet up with her later - maybe at one of the wine tastings - but it wasn't to be. Instead, we left her some wine (Somersville Chardonnay, which Brigette will tell you is like liquid, fat-free butter in a glass) when we left. I'll look her up when I'm back on the Big Island next fall.

Meeting Athena and chatting with her - and her sweet gesture to a couple of Maui visitors - made us love Honolua Store even more. (That and the limes we were able to pick up for the g&ts, natch.)

I Love Fresh Air

I have a rather annoying (to some) habit. It's a preference of mine and it's kind of a litmus test for my travel companions.

I am a window opener. It's the first thing I do when I arrive someplace on vacation. Whether it's Lake Las Vegas, Mexico, the Bahamas, or Key West, I'm on the terrace, enjoying the outdoors. I don't like to be cooped up and the trip over on the plane is almost more than I can bear.

I almost loathe A/C. In fact, I drive a convertible because I like outside air. I don't actually enjoy being tan all the time. I just can't help it. Got a lot of melanin.

So...as one would expect, upon arrival I threw open the sliding glass door. We started talking about sleeping with the door open all night, enjoying the island breezes, and listening to the ocean right outside. I was thrilled! Rapture, really.

As we prepared to leave for dinner, I decided to lock up because it would be so easy to climb over the wall to our patio and stroll into our room and steal our welcome chocolates - or our gin.
So, I was closing the door and some weird leaf fell down and hit me in the face and landed in between my tank top and my lei. I stopped and looked down to remove it and the leaf jumped up off my chest and hit me in the eye. I screamed so loud (like a girl, even!) that Nana came running out of the bathroom to see what seaweed monster was dragging me off.

By that time, I had grabbed the gecko off my chest and tried to fling it out into the grass. It had other ideas and had run up my arm and jumped back into the drapes.

You might think it was a gecko like this (because there are tons of them around the property):

But it was a gecko more like THIS!

I have to assume that it ran outside...startled by my high-pitched shriek and frenzied, mindless efforts to kill it. (I wouldn't normally do that, but fight or flight was kicking in.)

We ended up keeping the door closed while we were sleeping, much to my disappointment. I just couldn't in good conscience leave it open and risk Nana being carted away by giant, muscle-bound, ill-tempered, mutant geckos.

Each morning, we greeted the day by opening the room up and each evening, before bed, we solemnly closed - and locked (did I mention the opposable thumbs on that green monster?) - the door.

Later we ran across this sign.

Now they tell us.

What I'm Drinking

I've settled in for a nice evening with a little of the Pied Violet 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, a really garlicky salad with grilled chicken, and some 24 and hottie Jack Bauer. They're all surprisingly good together.

So, I'm bragging to my friend on the phone that I'm drinking the sold out Cab tonight, starting Season 4, and how delicious it all is and I look down and realize that I'd accidentally grabbed the Merlot from the wine basement.

Turns out the Merlot is even better with the salad - and the watermelon - and I'm actually quite grateful to learn this, because it's still available and I can continue to be uncharacteristically stingy with my last six bottles of the Cab.

The first night the whole gang met up in Maui - and at convention - I'd been a little cranky because I saw the beautiful Purple Foot label and each time I'd bellied up to the bar, visibly excited about having some of the Cabernet--and was met with the Merlot. In Maui (see above and below) I was mocked for my diva behavior. How dare they make fun of me for being so ridiculously opinionated and enthusiastic!
I didn't exactly drink the Merlot grudgingly... but I am still convinced that the Cab would have been better with the pate on pita, the fantastic goat cheese and grape tomato skewers, as well as with the delicious petite filets and the chocolate mousse.

When they said "sold out" they must have meant it.

Some Rooms with a View

Look at our room! We couldn't believe it. In hindsight, I don't know what we expected, but it wasn't this. When we checked in and she told us we'd be on the first floor with an ocean view, I even asked "Will we be able to see the ocean from the first floor?"

I hope I don't run into her again. I'm embarassed by my cape-flipping response. I wasn't yet in Maui mode and didn't realize how fantastic the staff would be or how many great friends we would make. Honestly, when I return to Maui, I'll probably stay at the Sheraton Maui again.

I mean, with views like this from the suite...
this during Sunset....

and like this at the Lagoon bar...



Come on! It's paradise, people.

A Gorgeous Resort

My first time in Maui and Nana's first to Hawai'i at all and we didn't know what to expect. It's embarrassing, but I'll admit it because if you know me well, you've probably heard me say it before.

In fact, less than a month ago, I was saying it at a gorgeous Tuscan-style resort in Nevada.

A couple of summers ago I was overheard observing the same thing in the Bahamas.

The first time we went to New Orleans, I said it.

And, I'll bet if I ever go on safari in Kenya or stay at an African lodge, I'll say it.

(Warning: I expect I'll definitely utter the phrase in Italy next month.)
It reminds me of Disney World.

There. I wrote it.

And I realize that it's very sad. I've seen the fake version of "the world" so many times - and Disney is so good at replicating it, albeit in a sanitized version - that when I go places that are distinctive, I'm reminded of the lands the Mouse built.
The bars and the drink huts remind me of the Tiki Room at the Magic Kingdom. (YOU know the place, where the birds all sing and the flowers bloom? Yeah that one, the tiki, tiki, tiki, tiki, tiki room.)
The resort itself reminds me so much of the Polynesian Resort at Disney World, with a little bit of the Royal Pacific Resort from Universal Orlando thrown in.

I know that this is the real thing - and it certainly is better - but it's amazing to me what a great job they do copying it in Orlando. As I type this, I hear a Hawai'ian crooner performing out by the pool, and it sounds just like it does when Keane and I are waiting for our table at O'Hana.
I suppose that it was unavoidable, with the many times we've gone to Disney in our lifetimes and the great number of Epcot International Food and Wine Festivals Keane and I have jetted down to attend.

I only admit it here, because you are my friend and you won't judge me for being a product of my environment.

I love to travel. I'll risk sounding smug and arrogant and call myself intellectually curious, even if you won't.

And, still, my touchstone, my impressions and perspective are all indelibly colored by my domestic experiences.

At theme parks.

Glorious, incredible theme parks - the best in the WORLD - but theme parks nonetheless.

Somehow that's depressing to me. Almost 40 and I compare all fabulous locales to the Disney version.

Nana and I are going to have to get out and really experience Maui so we can come home with tales that aren't just about what the most popular cocktail at the Lagoon Bar is or what our favorite appetizer is at Black Rock restaurant.

Stay tuned. There will be pictures.

The Road to Ka'anapali

We landed at Kahului airport and had to drive down to Ma'alaea Bay and then around along the shore through Lahaina to get to Ka'anapali, where we're staying.

It took about 45 minutes and by the second half the Maui rush hour had begun and I had to keep both hands on the wheel, but much of that portion of the trip the ocean was so close that if there'd been a rogue wave it would have soaked the pavement ahead of us.

We'd been mesmerized by the clouds earlier and how they alternated between looking vaguely threatening, as if a storm would gather any minute, and looking absolutely heavenly, with amazing shafts of sunlight streaming through. In many areas, the clouds shrouded mountains, leaving the summits obscured. So gorgeous - all of it.





And then we were there.

Watch Out South Pacific, Here We Come!

We departed National Airport very early Thursday morning. We had a short stop in Phoenix, but when we arrived in Maui in the early afternoon, we'd been airborne more than 10 hours and had been on the road for 15.

We were a little punchy by the time we were in the rental car and headed to our resort at Ka'anapali on the West Coast.
Nana's global appeal had actually landed us an upgrade to a convertible. All she did was tell Michael, our National rental car customer service specialist, her name and suddenly it was:

Do you need help with that, Elizabeth?
Are you comfortable, Elizabeth?
How about a convertible? It's the only way to see Maui.

And so it was.

Later, we popped in to KMart for some provisions recommended by the famous secret guidebook and located these special water shoe-sock thingees, called Tabis. We almost lost it trying to get Nana's sneaker off to try them on and then hunting for a place for her to sit to put the shoe back on. (Solution? A Coleman cooler!)

These shoes - at about $30 a pair - came so highly recommended that I really was going to buy them. Can you imagine?? We ultimately decided that if a waterfall we wanted to see couldn't be reached without these hideous things, we'd just skip it.

We hit the Hawai'i Liquor Superstore (natch!) and Borders, too. Everyone really is so friendly and by the time we got back in the car for the rest of the drive to the hotel, lots of people knew the story of Nana going to Maui.

One really nice guy helped me pick out a book of Hawai'i historical fiction. It looks like a Hawaiian bodice ripper, but he assured me it was of the highest literary merit.

Check it out for yourself, it's called Shark Dialogues. I haven't even read a page of it yet, but the cover art is provocative-ish. Apparently the same art was used for a Maui phone book last year, which is hard to imagine.

More Birthday Celebrations

...and somehow they always involve wine.

We gathered at Jen's beautiful home to celebrate three August birthdays: Carrie's, Liz's, and mine. There was amazing Thai food accompanied by several varietals, including the great Frisch Riesling provided by Brigette.

Val brought a very special, inconvenient-to-procure cake, which was incredibly delicious and warmly welcomed. In the excitement, she started blowing out the candles for us. She's just full service!

There were some good-natured scuffles over some coveted handbags and no less than three pairs of girlfriendy feet sported hot and enviable shoes. (I'm especially thinking of you, Erica. Polka dots!)














A few candles were still lit, so the birthday girls blew them out together and made many wishes, most probably involved more wine. Mine definitely involved more Thai food and fervent hopes that there'd be plenty of cake for seconds and maybe thirds!

Brigette's beautiful Lauren looked on and didn't seem entirely convinced we'd spent our wishes wisely.

But even Lauren concurred that we're very lucky women, all of us so grateful to have such a wonderful, supportive group of bon vivants as dear friends. It even looks like she became a touch verklempt thinking about it.

Happy Birthday to Me!

So my wonderful family hosted a birthday dinner for me last night. Val attended and bonded with Gavin.














Nana was there, as she so often is for this August birthday. And, I got to choose anything I wanted for dinner. With an eye toward wearing a bathing suit next week, I opted for an ambitious array of special appetizers, delicious grilled shrimp on caesar salad, a family specialty, and crepe suzette, my favorite birthday dessert since childhood. Unlike last year, we had no fiery mishaps.

We also discussed the fun of growing up with a mom who is a gourmet. Two foodie (and drinkie) parents lends itself to interesting culinary preferences at a young age. How many 8-year-olds prefer a dessert en flambe to a birthday cake?

We reminisced over other boozy faves like cherries jubilee and cocoa amaretto mousse. We laughed about what our grade-school teachers must have thought of our creative writing assignments, peppered as they were with references to these drunken desserts, Brandy Alexanders, Golden Dreams, and Mudslides.

Stories abound of us sneaking extra servings of Cold Duck, Lancer's, or other special-occasion libations and being a little tipsy as we were sent to bed. I'm sure the 'rents are horrified by the confessions, but it's true! Besides, it's hard to keep an eye on four children during a dinner celebration and, frankly, we're none the worse for it.

Bob refused to partake, but for nostalgia's sake - and because people who say it doesn't taste good are liars - the rest of the nine of us finished three bottles of Mateus in honor of the beginning of my 39th year. That's approximately 30 flaming birthday crepes and counting, for those of you keeping track.

It's no wonder that three of the original family six-pack are now in the wine business.

And, yes, we are loving every minute of it.

A Future Hula Star Thanks You

Nana and I are preparing for our Dream Vacation to Maui. We've received the agenda, used frequent flier miles to upgrade to first class all the way (Thanks Mom!), and decided that renting a car is a very good idea.

We appreciate all the help our friends and family provided in helping to make this possible. If you hosted or attended a wine tasting with me in April or May, or you responded to my blatant plea for help at the very end, you significantly contributed to getting Nana to Hawaii for the very first time. Thank you so much! We couldn't have done it without you.

We depart in less than 72 hours and it's possible that two people have never been so excited about a ride to the airport. We promise to take lots of pictures and post them for you. Count on getting updates and though we won't live-blog the wine receptions and booze cruises, we'll likely keep you in the loop much of the time. If you have suggestions about MUST-DOs on Maui, please post them in the comments.

Lovely Nana has been reading all about the island in a tome my brother Bob's friend Chris lent us Maui Revealed: The Ultimate Guidebook. We've been instructed to be careful not to let the locals see us with it, as they don't appreciate the inside scoop it provides. I'm going to leave that subterfuge up to the Nana.

Don't worry.
I have her back.